What Is Woven Stretch Fabric?

What Is Woven Stretch Fabric?

Woven stretch fabric combines the breathability and comfort of traditional woven fabrics with the flexibility of spandex or elastane. These fabrics often have a higher percentage of elastane than knits, and can offer much more lengthwise stretch. They are also more crease resistant than knits and a great choice for workwear, activewear and outdoor gear.

Most woven fabrics are crisp and not particularly stretchy*, but some have spandex or other fibers woven in to add some give. This can range from a little stretch across the grain to 50% or more, depending on the fibre content and the weave pattern. Woven fabrics with substantial stretch along the bias are often used for clothing such as skirts or dresses.

In general, a fabric’s stretch is defined by how much it can be stretched without tearing or breaking. This can be measured as a percentage of the width of the fabric, and the stretch can be specified for horizontal or vertical directions. It’s important to understand the direction of stretch on your fabric, as patterns and seaming methods require it to be taken into account.

As the name suggests, a woven fabric is constructed using a basket-weave or similar structure of warp and weft threads that run parallel to each other. The individual threads are sewn together with a needle in a pattern called interlacing. The threads are then tightly woven together to form the fabric, with the edges of each woven thread fraying when cut. Woven fabrics are generally sturdy and long-wearing, but the lack of stretch makes them less comfortable than knits, especially when sitting or moving for extended periods of time.

To add some stretch, a fabric will typically incorporate a percentage of lycra or another elastic fiber into the warp and weft of the fabric. The fabric is then usually woven to include this fibre, but there are other ways to add stretch to a woven fabric, such as cutting it on the bias (at 45 degrees from the straight grain of the fabric).

When considering purchasing a woven stretch fabric, check the spec and features tabs for information about the percentage of stretch across the length and width of the fabric. This can help you choose a fabric that matches your requirements for stretch and stretch recovery, as well as determining the best construction stitch to use. Sewing with stretch wovens can be tricky, and you may need to experiment with your machine settings to find the right tension setting that works for you.

Pretreating your woven stretch fabric is a good idea, especially if it contains wool or silk. This will minimize the risk of shrinking and stretching that can be caused by heat. Typically, a cold water wash with a mild detergent and tumble drying on a low setting is enough. Avoid using any harsh chemicals, as they can damage the elasticity of the fabric.